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So you’re bleaching big roots? Not sure if you need a double process bleach? Different hair types often require different formulas and methods, so before you dive headfirst into the bleach bowl let us talk you through it. If your roots are longer than 3cms then you'll need two boxes of your usual bleach to make sure you're completely covered. If you're not sure which bleach is right for you then try our hair quiz to find out (and get 15% off your order)! Keep hair healthy in the bleaching process and you can colour with confidence time and time again! And if there's anything we don't cover below just drop us a line and one of our salon specialists will get back to you ASAP. We're all rooting for you!
How long you can leave the bleach on for depends on your hair shape and the thickness of individual hair strands. If you have coily hair, or fine hair that's straight, wavy or curly, it will likely process more quickly, so don't leave the bleach on your roots for longer than 20-30 mins per section. We recommend checking the hair every ten minutes with a scrape test.
If you have thick hair strands that are straight, wavy or curly, your hair needs more processing time, so you can leave the bleach on your roots for up to 45 mins per section. Do a scrape test to check your hair after 20 mins and then again after 40 mins.
A double process bleach, or big root bleach, is a root touch up that requires the hair to be bleached in two sections. Since the scalp emits heat, bleach near the scalp lifts the hair near the scalp very quickly. So if roots have grown to longer than 3cm (just over one inch) or more than 8 weeks of regrowth, then the roots further from the scalp will take more time to process than the hair near the scalp. This means you must apply the bleach twice -- once to the outer root and then again to the scalp root, careful to not put bleach overtop bleach.
You must perform a strand test to check the condition of your hair and how it will look and feel after bleaching. Click here for our strand and skin sensitivity test guide.
Read all the instructions included in your Bleach Kit. Check the timings for your hair shape and texture.
Get prepped! Lay out your products and familiarise yourself with them. See our toolkit below.
Don’t wash your hair for 48 hours prior to bleaching as the natural hair oils help to protect the scalp.
Set aside 30 mins - 1.5 hours for the process.
Use a comb to centre-part your hair. Then, part the left side from in front of your ear up to the centre-parting and secure it with a crocodile clip or hair tie. Repeat on the right hand side so your hair is divided into four neat, secure quarters. The top of your head should look like a hot cross bun.
Cut open the bleach packet and pour its contents into a non-metallic bowl. Add the developing lotion and use a non-metallic spoon to mix them together into a smooth, creamy texture.
TOP TIP: Only mix when you’re ready to start. Mixed bleach can expand in the bowl, so do it just before you begin.
Begin at the front of your head. Use the end of the comb to slice out the first section of hair above your right ear. The slice should be a very thin sliver of hair, about 2cm wide.
Starting 2cm from your scalp, paint the bleach mixture liberally onto the middle of the slice of hair up to where your old bleach is using the tint brush. Continue slicing through your front quarters and applying the bleach to the mids of your hair.
Be very careful not to touch the ends of your hair where it's been bleached before!
Repeat the slicing and applying at the back of your head until the mids of your hair are completely coated in the bleach.
A scrape test helps you check the colour and condition of your hair during the bleaching process.
Let the bleach develop on the mids of each quarter of your hair for 20-40 minutes or until the hair has visibly lightened. Use the end of the comb to gently scrape the bleach away from your hair and check it has lightened enough.
Top tip: If the hair feels gummy, overly stretchy or snaps then you should rinse immediately.
Once the mids and ends in the first quarter of your hair have turned pale yellow, you're ready to apply bleach to the roots.
Start with the first quarter at the front again and paint the bleach mixture onto your roots at the crown using your tint brush.
Slice hair out in small sections from the crown and apply bleach to your roots throughout the first quarter, followed by the second quarter.
After your roots at the front are covered in bleach, paint the mixture on to the fine strands around your hairline. Once the front of your head is covered in bleach, set a timer for either 30 or 45 minutes, depending on your hair shape and texture.
Repeat slicing and applying through the back of your head at the roots. Once your roots at the back are covered in bleach, set a second timer.
How long you can leave the bleach on for depends on your hair shape and the thickness of individual hair strands. If you have coily hair, or fine hair that's straight, wavy or curly, it will likely process more quickly, so don't leave the bleach on your roots for longer than 20-30 mins per quarter. We recommend checking the hair every ten minutes with a scrape test.
If you have thick hair strands that are straight, wavy or curly, your hair needs more processing time, so you can leave the bleach on your roots for up to 45 mins per quarter. Do a scrape test to check your hair after 20 mins and then again after 40 mins.
Top tip: Always refer to your strand test when bleaching your hair but remember – heat from the scalp makes bleach develop faster so a scrape test is important to make sure your hair isn't going too light!
After your hair at the front has developed for the recommended amount of time, use the comb to gently scrape the bleach away from your roots to check the hair has lightened enough. Then rinse the front of your head until the water runs clear.
Repeat the scrape test at the back of your head after your second timer goes off. Then rinse until the water runs clear.
Shampoo and rinse your freshly bleached hair twice. We recommend smooshing Alex Plex through and leaving for 5-10 minutes to strengthen your locks. Rinse and you're ready to tone!
Break the colourant tube’s seal using its lid and unscrew the top of the developing lotion bottle. Screw the lid back on and shake well until the two products are completely mixed together.
TOP TIP:
Only mix when you’re ready to start. You should use your toner immediately, so mix just before you begin.
Use the toner bottle to apply toner to the mids and ends of your hair all over. Use the nozzle to lift sections and apply more to the lengths throughout.
Loosely section your hair into four quarters. Use the toner bottle to apply the mixture to your roots at the front, then the back of your head. Use the nozzle to slice through the quarters and apply more toner to the roots through your whole head.
Gently smoosh the toner in all over your hair, adding more product as you go to make sure every strand is well covered.
Rinse your hair with cool water until it runs clear, then condition and rinse again to finish the toning process.